What is a machine-sewn hem?

A machine-sewn hem is produced using an industrial sewing machine that folds and stitches the edge of the fabric in a single continuous pass. The result is a clean, flat, consistent edge — typically 3 to 5mm in visible width, depending on the fold used. It is uniform from the first scarf to the last, which is both its strength and its aesthetic limitation. Machine hems are faster, more economical on larger runs, and entirely appropriate for a wide range of custom silk projects. They do not signal inferior quality — they signal a different priority. A scarf commissioned for a school project, an event gift, or a promotional program is not the same object as one designed for a museum gift…

What does the difference actually look and feel like?

The visual difference is subtle but real. A hand-rolled hem has that characteristic plump, tubular border — you can see the roll from the front of the scarf as a soft raised line that frames the design. The thread is almost invisible. The corner is a neat mitered fold, not a squared-off seam. A machine hem is flat against the scarf. The stitching is visible as a regular line running parallel to the edge. The finish is precise and consistent, but it does not add the textural dimension that the hand-rolled hem does.

When should you choose hand-rolled?

The hand-rolled hem is the right choice when the finished scarf is a considered luxury object — something that will be picked up, examined, and judged at the level of detail. Museum and gallery gift shop products, where customers are selecting a quality souvenir and the price reflects it. Artist editions where the finish of the piece is part of the maker’s statement. Premium corporate gifts where the scarf needs to feel genuinely generous rather than promotional. The retail price threshold where hand-rolling becomes worth the cost is roughly $100 and above. At that price point and above, customers who know quality will notice the finish — and those who do not know why will still feel the…

Does momme weight affect which hem to choose?

Yes, and it is worth knowing. The hand-rolled hem performs best on fabric from 14mm upward. At lighter weights — particularly 8mm chiffon — the roll is achievable but more delicate. At 14mm twill, the roll has more substance and produces the fuller, more classic result. At heavier weights of 16mm and above, the roll is at its most pronounced. Read our guide to momme weight to understand how fabric density affects the finished hem. And when you are deciding on the thread color for your hand-rolled hem, read our guide to choosing a border and hem color. If you are unsure which hem finish is right for your project, the brief conversation is the right moment to discuss it. Talk to us about…

Hand-Rolled vs Machine Hem: What the Finish Says About Your Silk Scarf

Q: When is a machine hem the better choice?

When the print is the point and the edge is functional. When the quantity is large and the per-unit price matters more than the premium finish. When the scarves are promotional, event-based, or educational in purpose. Schools, corporate programs, fundraising merchandise, and staff gifts are contexts where a machine hem is entirely appropriate.

October 10, 2026

Quick answer: A hand-rolled hem is rolled by hand and secured with small stitches, giving a silk scarf a soft, rounded edge with slight natural variation. A machine hem is a flat, narrow hem with a single straight row of stitching: clean, straight and consistent. At LS Silk a machine hem costs $2 less per piece, so choose on look and feel. Hand-rolled suits a traditional scarf; machine suits geometric borders and designs that need precise edges.

Close view of the hem on a silk scarf

Run your finger along the edge of a fine silk scarf and you will feel something a photograph cannot quite show. A gentle ridge. A softness where the edge becomes the border. That is a hand-rolled hem, and it is worth understanding what it is and when it matters.

Most people ordering a custom silk scarf for the first time do not think to ask about the hem. It sounds like a minor detail until you see what it does to the finished piece.

What is a hand-rolled hem?

A hand-rolled hem, called roulotté in French, is made by rolling the raw edge of the silk into a narrow tube with the fingers and securing it with small hand stitches. The result is a soft, rounded edge a few millimeters wide that sits slightly raised from the surface of the scarf. Each corner is folded and rolled so the edge continues neatly around the turn.

The slight variation from scarf to scarf is not a defect. It is the mark of handwork, and part of what people who know silk look for.

What is a machine hem?

A machine hem is folded flat and stitched with a single straight row of stitching. It is narrow, clean and identical from the first scarf to the last.

A machine hem does not signal lower quality. It signals a different priority. Where the design has a geometric border, or needs its edges to align precisely, the straight machine hem is often the better-looking choice.

What does the difference look and feel like?

	Hand-rolled hem	Machine hem
Look	Soft, rounded edge with a visible roll	Flat edge with a straight line of stitching
Feel	Slightly plump and tactile	Flat against the scarf
Consistency	Subtle natural variation	Identical on every piece
Silk used	About 0.6 in (1.5 cm) on each side	About 0.4 in (1 cm) on each side
Best for	Traditional scarves, artist editions, gallery retail, premium gifts	Geometric borders, designs needing precise edges
Price	Standard	$2 less per piece

How much silk does each hem use?

A hand-rolled hem uses about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) of silk on each side to form the roll, so plan your border with this in mind. A machine hem uses about 0.4 in (1 cm). The same scarf therefore finishes about 0.4 in (1 cm) larger with a machine hem than with a hand-rolled hem.

In the Custom Studio you also choose a hem color. About 0.6 in (1.5 cm) of that color is added around your artwork, and it becomes the rolled edge. We suggest a color from your artwork and you can change it. Our guide to choosing a border and hem color covers the options.

When should I choose a hand-rolled hem?

When the scarf is meant to be picked up, examined and kept: a gallery or museum scarf, an artist edition, a wedding favor, a gift that should feel generous. The roll adds a texture the print alone cannot.

When is a machine hem the better choice?

When the design has a geometric border or a pattern that runs to a precise edge, and a perfectly straight finish will look sharper than a soft roll. It is also slightly faster to make.

Does the silk affect the hem?

A little. A hand-rolled hem works well on every silk in the Custom Studio. On silk twill at 16 momme the roll is slightly fuller than at 14 momme, because there is more silk in it. Read our guide to momme weight for more.

Ready to start? Choose your size, silk and finish and see your price right away. Choose your finish in the Custom Studio →

Not sure which hem suits your design? Email support@lovesilk.com.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a hand-rolled hem and a machine hem on a silk scarf?

A hand-rolled hem is rolled and stitched by hand into a soft, rounded edge. A machine hem is a flat, narrow hem with a straight row of stitching.

Does a hand-rolled hem cost more?

Slightly. At LS Silk a machine hem is $2 less per piece than a hand-rolled hem.

What is a roulotté hem?

Roulotté is the French term for a hand-rolled hem, the traditional finish for fine silk scarves.

When is a machine hem the right choice?

When a design has a geometric border or needs precise edge alignment, a machine hem gives a straighter, more consistent finish.

Does the hem change the size of the scarf?

Yes, slightly. A machine-hemmed scarf finishes about 0.4 in (1 cm) larger than the same scarf with a hand-rolled hem.

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