What is silk crêpe de chine, and when is it the right choice?

Crêpe de chine — literally “fabric of China” in French — is produced using highly twisted yarns in both the warp and weft of a plain weave. The twist in the yarn creates a surface that is slightly crinkled at a microscopic level, giving the fabric its characteristic matte finish and subtly pebbled hand. Against the skin it feels cool and fluid, without the slight grip of twill. At 14mm, crêpe de chine is lighter in feel than twill at the same weight. It drapes more fluidly, falls in softer folds, and moves more freely when worn. For printing, crêpe de chine is one of the most satisfying silk substrates. Its slightly textured surface absorbs acid dye with exceptional depth and evenness.…

How do the three fabrics compare side by side?

Twill at 14mm is the most structured, most durable, and most traditional of the three. It is the fabric of considered objects — pieces made to last and to be used regularly. Crêpe de chine at 14mm sits in the middle ground in the best possible sense — fluid where twill is firm, matte where twill has a subtle sheen, and more contemporary in feel. Chiffon at 8mm does something the others cannot. For the right project, it is the only choice.

What about mixing fabrics across a range?

For clients producing multiple designs, mixing fabrics within a range is completely workable in production. If you are uncertain which fabric is right for a specific design, this is worth raising at the brief stage. Our guide on how to brief a custom silk scarf project covers how to approach this conversation. The most common outcome of the fabric conversation is that clients have a clearer answer than they expected once they understand what each choice actually involves. Talk to us about your fabric options →

Silk Twill vs Satin vs Crêpe de Chine vs Chiffon: Which Silk for Your Custom Scarf?

October 10, 2026

Quick answer: Silk twill is structured and durable, the classic choice for scarves that need to hold a knot and show detailed prints. Crêpe de Chine is softer and more fluid, with a matte surface that suits painterly artwork. Silk chiffon is sheer and weightless. In the LS Silk Custom Studio you can choose silk twill at 14 or 16 momme or crêpe de Chine at 14 momme. Chiffon is available by quote.

All silk. All from the same silkworm. And yet the finished scarf feels entirely different depending on which cloth you choose. This is the decision most first-time customers wish they had understood better before they ordered.

The silk you choose shapes the print, the drape, the wear and the way the finished piece is perceived. A design that works beautifully on twill might lose something on chiffon. A painterly artwork that sings on crêpe de Chine might feel slightly flat on twill. If you are still working on the design itself, read our guide on designing for silk first.

What is silk twill, and when is it the right choice?

Silk twill is woven with a fine diagonal rib. That weave makes it denser, more structured and more durable than a plain weave of the same weight, and gives it a slight surface grip: when you tie a twill scarf, the knot stays where you put it.

For printing, twill reproduces fine detail with precision. Intricate patterns, sharp geometric designs, botanical illustrations with clean lines and architectural motifs all translate with clarity. Color is strong and dark backgrounds look rich.

Twill is the cloth the great scarf houses built their reputations on. For a scarf that will be handled, gifted, worn and kept, it is usually the right answer.

Should I choose 14 momme or 16 momme twill?

Twill at 14 momme is the classic mid-weight: it falls in clean folds and has presence without being stiff. Twill at 16 momme is more substantial, with greater body and weight, while keeping its drape and luster. Choose 16 momme when you want the scarf to feel noticeably weightier in the hand, for a premium retail piece or a milestone gift. Our guide to momme weight explains the unit.

What is silk satin, and when is it the right choice?

Silk satin, also sold as charmeuse, is woven so that the long warp threads float across the face of the cloth. That gives it the glossiest surface of the silks we print, a softer matte reverse and the most fluid drape of all. Color reads deep and bright, and fine detail prints cleanly. We offer it at 14 and 16 momme, printed on both sides like every silk in the Custom Studio, and price it the same as twill at the same weight.

Choose satin for a scarf that is worn loose and moves: a hair scarf, a neckerchief tied softly, an evening piece. Choose twill when the design relies on structure, a crisp fold or a knot that holds.

What is crêpe de Chine, and when is it the right choice?

Crêpe de Chine is a plain weave made with highly twisted yarns. The twist gives the surface a very fine texture, a matte finish and a cool, fluid feel against the skin, without the grip of twill.

At 14 momme it drapes more softly than twill of the same weight and moves more freely when worn. It takes dye deeply and evenly, so painterly artwork, such as ink-wash illustration, loose botanicals and watercolour, often looks its best on it. It is particularly lovely for scarves worn at the neck, over the shoulders or in the hair.

What is silk chiffon, and when is it the right choice?

Chiffon is the lightest of the four. At 8 momme it is sheer, weightless and completely without structure. Held to the light it is translucent, which softens the printed design: colors read lighter and more delicate. Artwork with a watercolour or ethereal quality suits it well.

Chiffon is not in the Custom Studio. It is available by quote: email support@lovesilk.com.

One technical note for every silk: there is no white ink in digital silk printing. White areas in your artwork appear as the natural color of the silk, a warm ivory.

How do the silks compare side by side?

Silk	Feel	Best for	How to order
Silk twill, 14 momme	Smooth, softly lustrous, holds a knot	Detailed and geometric designs, gallery and gift scarves	Custom Studio
Silk twill, 16 momme	As above, with more body and weight	Premium retail pieces and milestone gifts	Custom Studio
Crêpe de Chine, 14 momme	Matte, soft and fluid	Painterly artwork, scarves worn at the neck or in the hair	Custom Studio
Silk chiffon, 8 momme	Sheer and weightless	Watercolour designs and floaty pieces	By quote

Does the silk change the price?

A little. On a 25.6 in (65 cm) scarf in a run of 30 to 49 pieces, twill at 14 momme is $42 each, twill at 16 momme is $45 and crêpe de Chine is $49. See our cost guide for all prices.

Can I mix silks across a range?

Yes. Each design is ordered separately, so one design can be on twill and another on crêpe de Chine. If you cannot decide for a particular design, order a finished sample in each.

Ready to start? Choose your silk, size and finish and see your price right away. Choose your silk in the Custom Studio →

Want chiffon or a heavier silk? Email support@lovesilk.com for a quote.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between silk twill and crêpe de Chine for scarves?

Silk twill has a diagonal weave that gives it structure, grip and durability. Crêpe de Chine is a plain weave of twisted yarns with a softer, more fluid drape and a matte finish.

Which silk is best for printing detailed designs?

Silk twill gives the sharpest reproduction of fine detail. Crêpe de Chine also handles detail well and excels with gradients and soft brushwork.

Is 16 momme silk twill better than 14 momme?

It is heavier, not better. Choose 16 momme for more body and weight, and 14 momme for the classic lighter scarf feel.

Can I order a silk chiffon scarf?

Yes, by quote. Chiffon is not in the Custom Studio, so email support@lovesilk.com.

Does the silk affect the price of a custom scarf?

Slightly. Twill at 16 momme and crêpe de Chine cost a few dollars more per piece than twill at 14 momme.

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