How to Wear a Silk Scarf: Folds, Knots and What to Wear Them With
Quick answer: Start with two folds: a triangle for bandana shapes and a narrow band for almost everything else. Tie with a square knot (right over left, then left over right), because silk slides out of anything looser. A 26-inch square suits one wrap at the neck, a headband or a bag handle. A long scarf handles loops, wraps and belts.
Some of the most faithful silk scarf wearers in America work cattle. In Nevada, Idaho and Oregon, buckaroos tie silk squares at the throat against the cold wind, and they call them wild rags.
Nobody in a saddle is worrying about looking effortless, which makes it a good place to start. Almost everything below comes from two folds and one knot you may have learned in Scouts.
Many tutorials assume a square of about 36 in (90 cm). The measurements here are for the two scarves LS Silk sells: a 26 × 26 in (65 × 65 cm) square and a 67 × 20 in (170 × 50 cm) long scarf. With a bigger square, your ends get longer and you can wrap twice.
What are the two basic folds for a silk scarf?
Almost every knot starts with a triangle or a band.
The triangle. Lay the square flat and bring one corner to the opposite corner. On a 26 in square, the long edge is about 37 in (94 cm).
The band. Lay the square flat as a diamond. Fold the bottom corner up to the center and the top corner down to meet it. Then fold it in half along its length, and in half again, for a wide band about 4½ in (11 cm) across. Fold once more for a narrow band a little over 2 in (6 cm). Either way the band is about 37 in long, and because it runs on the bias, diagonally across the weave, it curves easily around your neck.
What knot keeps a silk scarf from slipping?
A square knot, because it locks where a lazier knot slides. Take the right end over the left and under. Then take the end that's now on the left over the right one and under, and pull both ends sideways to snug it. The ends should lie flat beside the knot. If they stick out crooked, you've tied a granny knot, the one that's undone by lunch.
How do you tie a silk scarf around your neck?
Wrap it once, using a band for a slim knot or a triangle for a bandana shape. A 26 in square won't go around twice: on a 14 in neck, a second wrap leaves about 4 in (10 cm) on each side, too short to tie.
The side knot
Make a narrow band. Lay its middle against the back of your neck, bring the ends forward and tie a square knot at the hollow of your throat. Slide it around until the knot sits under one ear, with ends of about 8 in (20 cm). Wear it over a crew-neck sweater or inside an open shirt.
The ranch knot
This is the wild rag, scaled down. Fold the triangle and lay the long edge across the back of your neck so the point hangs down your back. Bring the ends forward and tie a square knot low on your throat. Turn it around, with the point on your chest and the knot at the nape, and you have the familiar bandana. (One cowboy-knot guide warns that any hard knot is a bad idea for real ranch work: if the scarf catches on a saddle horn, the knot won't let go. This one is for town.)
The ascot
Make a wide band and hang it around your neck, with the left end about 4 in (10 cm) longer than the right. Cross the long end over the short one, bring it up behind both layers at your throat and out at the top, then let it drop over the crossing. Open your top two shirt buttons and tuck both ends inside.
How do you wear a silk scarf in your hair?
Fold a band for a headband or a ponytail tie, or a triangle to cover your hair.
The headband
Make a narrow band. Lay the middle at your nape, under your hair, bring the ends up behind your ears and tie a square knot on top of your head, a little off center. The short ends can stand up or tuck under. A bobby pin behind each ear stops it sliding on smooth hair.
The ponytail tie
Secure the ponytail with a plain elastic first, since silk alone won't hold it. Pass a narrow band under the ponytail and tie a square knot or a bow over the elastic.
The kerchief
Fold the triangle. Lay the long edge along your hairline, with the point hanging at the back of your head. Take the ends behind your ears, under your hair, and tie a square knot at the nape, over the point. For the convertible look from old movies, tie it under your chin instead.
The head wrap
A 26 in square is small for full hair or hair worn up, so use the long scarf for a head wrap, a style with deep roots in African and African American dress. Fold it in half lengthwise. Bend forward so your hair falls toward the floor, and lay the middle of the scarf across the nape of your neck. Bring both ends around the sides of your head to your forehead, gathering your hair inside, then cross them and twist once. Stand up, take the ends back around to the nape and tie them or tuck them under the wrap.
How do you tie a silk scarf on a bag?
Wrap a narrow band around the handle and knot it at each end. Tie one end around the base of the handle, leaving a short tail, then wind the band up at a slant, overlapping a little, and knot it at the top. A 26 in square covers a short top handle. On a long shoulder strap, tie it at the base in a bow instead. A rough metal ring can snag silk.
How do you wear a long silk scarf?
Fold it lengthwise first, since 20 in is too wide to knot neatly, then choose a loop, a wrap or a belt.
The loop
Fold it lengthwise to about 10 in wide, then in half end to end, so you have a loop at one end and two loose ends at the other. Hang it behind your neck, pull both loose ends through the loop and snug it up. It's sometimes called the Parisian knot, and it suits a fall jacket.
The once-around
Fold it to about 5 in wide and hang it around your neck with one end about 12 in (30 cm) longer. Take the long end across your chest and over the opposite shoulder. Under a winter coat, lay both ends flat inside before you button up. It keeps a wool collar off your neck, though it won't do a chunky scarf's work in January.
The open wrap
Open it out to its full 20 in, lay it across your back at shoulder height and throw the right end over your left shoulder. The satin finish slides, so tuck the front edge under your arm when you're moving. Pins can leave holes.
The belt
Fold it lengthwise to 2 to 3 in wide. Wrap it around your waist over a dress, or thread it through belt loops if it fits, and tie a square knot at one hip. At 67 in it goes around most waists with ends to spare. Metal zippers and rough seams can catch it.
With any long scarf, keep the ends clear of bicycle wheels, escalators and anything else that turns. The dancer Isadora Duncan died in Nice in 1927 when her long silk shawl caught in the wheel of an open car.
What should you wear a silk scarf with?
Wear it with plain things, and let the season decide how much of it touches your neck. The side knot and the ascot work on anyone (the neckerchief revival has some of the history), and how to style silk covers silk beyond the scarf.
| When | Scarf | Try |
|---|---|---|
| Business casual at the office | Square | An ascot inside an open collar, or a side knot over a crew-neck sweater |
| Jeans and a white T-shirt | Square | The ranch knot, or the bandana with the point in front |
| June to August heat | Square | A headband, ponytail tie or bag handle, so nothing sits on your neck |
| A windy day at the beach | Square | The kerchief |
| A summer wedding, or cocktail attire in an air-conditioned room | Long | The open wrap, over bare shoulders |
| Fall, with a light jacket or trench coat | Long | The loop |
| Winter, under a wool coat | Long | The once-around, ends flat inside |
How do you keep a silk scarf looking good?
Untie it when you take it off and hang it up, since a knot left in overnight sets its creases. Put on perfume and hairspray before you tie, and let them dry. A silk square can be hand washed cold or dry cleaned, with a cool iron on the reverse if it needs one, and how to care for silk clothing covers the rest.
See LS Silk scarves: 100% mulberry silk, in square and long shapes →
Somewhere in northern Nevada this winter, somebody will tie a silk square against the wind without looking down, the same knot as yesterday. Learn the one knot, tie it badly a few times in the hallway mirror, and go to work.
Frequently asked questions
What's the easiest way to tie a silk scarf?
Fold a square into a narrow band, lay the middle against the back of your neck, bring the ends forward and tie a square knot. Slide the knot around so it sits under one ear. It takes about a minute and works over a sweater or inside an open shirt.
What size silk scarf do I need to tie around my neck?
A 26 in (65 cm) square is enough for one wrap and a knot, with ends of around 8 in (20 cm). For two wraps, look for something closer to 36 in (90 cm). A long scarf of 67 × 20 in (170 × 50 cm) folds down for loops and wraps.
How do you keep a silk scarf from slipping?
Use a square knot, tied right over left and then left over right, because it locks where a granny knot slides. In the hair, a bobby pin behind each ear helps. For a ponytail, secure the hair with an elastic first and tie the scarf over it.
How do you wear a silk scarf in summer?
Keep it off your neck. A headband, a ponytail tie or a wrap around a bag handle gives you the color without anything sitting on your throat in June to August heat. A long scarf opened out also makes a light wrap for a cold air-conditioned room.
Can men wear a silk scarf?
Yes. The side knot and the ascot work on anyone, and the ranch knot comes straight from working buckaroos in Nevada, Idaho and Oregon. Try one inside an open collar or over a crew-neck sweater.
How do you get creases out of a silk scarf?
Untie it as soon as you take it off and hang it, since most knot creases set overnight. For a silk square, use a cool iron on the reverse if it still needs help. Don't leave it knotted on a bag for months without taking it off to check.
Related reading: The Stories Behind the Silk Scarf · How to Style Silk · Silky vs Silk